When Mark Cho, co-founder of menswear boutiques The Armoury and Drake’s, couldn’t find the perfect bracelet to match his vintage Cartier watch, he did what few others would: he designed one himself—out of solid 18k gold. What began as a personal project has evolved into a bespoke offering now available to discerning collectors worldwide.
Cho, known for his sharp eye and respected watch collection, first envisioned the bracelet for his Cartier Tank Louis Cartier with a special Mosaic dial. “I always wanted a multicolored gold bracelet for that watch,” he explains. The idea gained momentum after Cho came across a 1970s Cartier Cintrée on a white gold bracelet and met a semi-retired goldsmith willing to help bring his concept to life.
From Private Passion to Boutique Offering
Initially, Cho produced just 10 bracelets—one for himself and nine for Armoury VIPs. But after posting the results on Instagram, interest surged. The bracelets are now available to order through The Armoury’s website, with each piece made-to-order in Hong Kong and delivered in approximately four months.
A Design Rooted in Horological History
Cho’s designs draw heavily from Cartier’s vintage bracelet styles, especially pieces featured in 1990s Antiquorum auctions and the private collection of renowned watch connoisseur John Goldberger. “We looked at vintage Cartier Tank bracelets and reinterpreted them in a way that feels both respectful and contemporary,” says Cho.
Each bracelet features solid 18k gold links—never hollow—and includes thoughtful modern updates such as screwed end-links for added stability. The seven-link rows are customized to fit specific Cartier models: thicker links for the Tank Louis Cartier, and slimmer ones for the Tank Cintrée. A butterfly clasp ensures a secure and seamless fit, while solid gold end-links sit flush against the watch case.
Meticulous Craftsmanship
The production process begins with prototypes in brass. Once the design passes visual and mechanical tests, it’s crafted in gold and meticulously hand-finished—a labor-intensive step Cho insists on. “Hand-finishing every single component is one of the most time-consuming parts, but it makes a real difference,” he says.
Buyers can choose from yellow, rose, or white gold, with rhodium plating recommended for platinum watches. There’s also a tri-color version designed to complement the 2022 Mosaic Dial Louis Cartier. Finishes are available in brushed or polished, with the brushed option aligning with the Cartier case’s texture at the 6 and 9 o’clock positions.
Price and Philosophy
Pricing begins at $20,500 for single-color bracelets and $24,500 for tri-color versions. A 50% deposit is required at the time of order, with the balance due upon delivery.
While Cho is quick to acknowledge the challenges of entering the high-precision world of horological accessories, he believes The Armoury’s bracelets offer unmatched value. “We didn’t cut corners. I struggle to imagine how anyone could make a better, cheaper one,” he says.
Expanding the Vision
Cho’s future plans include more intricate mesh-style bracelets with up to eleven links, as well as rounded-end designs that fit watches beyond Cartier—including a custom piece for the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. Yet even as the offering grows, his approach remains deeply personal. “Most of these projects come from me thinking, ‘Wouldn’t it be cool if this existed?’ Then we make it—and if other collectors want it too, all the better.”
Finding a Niche in a Traditional Market
Introducing a novel product to a conservative market is never easy. “In a space as mature and tradition-bound as watchmaking, you can’t go too far off script,” says Cho. “But simply replicating the past isn’t exciting either. This bracelet was an exception—I wanted it so badly.”
By blending historical reverence with modern design and artisanal craftsmanship, Cho has carved out a niche that few others occupy. And judging by the growing demand, it’s clear he’s not the only one who wanted a bracelet like this.
Related topics:
- India Surpasses China in Gold Purchases, Buying 51% More in Three Months
- Qilu Bank Enhances Support for Small Businesses with Innovative Financial Tools
- Bitcoin Poised for a Surge Amid Gold’s Delivery Delays, Expert Claims
